“Recycling of styles is rarely pure, in the sense that we are looking at direct copies of former items of clothing. This process of recycling has speeded up so much that we are in a situation where practically speaking all styles overlap each other regarding time. The temporary distance between the ‘new’ and the recycled fashion has become less and less until it finally disappeared.” (Lars Svendsen, 2006)
The test research that I conducted from December 2018 till March 2019, visiting 10 participants, using the AW 19/20 trend report from trend forecasting agency WGSN, resulting in a total of 79 findings. This great number of findings questions if the new is really new and consequently how much relevancy a trend still holds today.
As of Nū is an ongoing research practice, making a territorial interference (this being the traditional fashion forecasting model) with the distribution of the new.
This interference is made through self-developed alternative forecasting research methods. As of Nū values the input of the wearer as much as the maker of fashion trends, and aims to turn a monologue to a dialogue. This dialogue will create a more democratic view on trends and forecasting research and will present an alternative way of seeing trends and what is considered ‘new’. The embodied approach that is taken into account within the alternative forecasting research methods, will provide the consumer with the opportunity to claim their agency.
This dialogue will act as a counterbalance to the traditional and strongly hierarchal fashion forecasting model.
FORECAST YOUR OWN WARDROBE
Within this research method, I visit fashion consumers in their homes, bringing with me a full womenswear fashion trend report for next year. I start the research by asking them to go through the whole report and mark garments that they think they already own themselves. Once the similar items are found, we photograph these findings and will collect trend related data. This method, therefore, enables us to find future trendy garments in existing wardrobes.
Sprinkles & Spice
ARCHIVING THE NEW
AS OF NŪ REPORT
The results of the Forecast Your Own Wardrobe research method are presented in the As of Nū report. This visual research is supported by various essays, regarding the new and the desire for the new, the current state of forecasting and the related problems of consumption and the unsustainable mindset.
ENFOLDING THE NOW